Garden State’s finest vineyards found in its southernmost region
There are 276 wine-growing regions in the U.S. known as American Vinicultural Areas, and Cape May County sits at the tip of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA (OCPVA).
In visual terms, if you look at a map of southern New Jersey, the OCPVA resembles a right-handed fist with a forefinger stretched out. That forefinger is the Cape May peninsula, and it points to some of the finest wineries and vineyards in the Garden State.
Willow Creek Vineyard and Winery vineyard manager and winemaker Francisco Maldonado said it all starts in the vineyard.
Local winemakers enjoy three peninsula terroir advantages: The somewhat predictable climate promotes a long growing season, the sandy soil allows for efficient drainage and the land is bordered on three sides by the waters of Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, so most days the steady breeze of the Gulf Stream keeps the vines clean and healthy.
Being at the southernmost point of New Jersey, the northbound Gulf Stream first crosses the majestic grounds of Willow Creek Winery and Farm on Stevens Street in West Cape May.
Blowing down a long driveway, the winds cross a grand chateau, then a chicken coop, a mysterious swamp and old train tracks. Adjacent to an “Alice in Wonderland” installation, the vinicultural enchantment begins, sweeping through vast vineyards leading to an indoor/outdoor tasting area.
Great winemaking is not only born of a terrific terroir, it’s often a proud family passion. Second-generation entrepreneur Hamilton Wilde has cultivated an expansive and impressive hospitality empire.
She operates an experiential winery, and does so with confidence, grace and good humor. Wilde and veteran vintner Maldonado value experimentation, the theory being that offering new things keeps the customers coming back.
In describing his approach to shepherding the grapes into liquid joy, Maldonado’s vine management includes the time-consuming process of “green pruning,” in which protrusions are removed from the clusters by hand, allowing ample air flow to refine the grapes. He further employs the “skin technique” in which the skins of grapes are left in the fermentation for varying periods of time to adjust the smell, color and flavor of the wine.
Maldonado, Wilde and Marketing Director Tamara Turse believe that each glass of wine, after a little swilling, should be judged by three sips. The first sip cleanses the palate, the second is primarily for the nose and the third sip is to relish the taste.
When asked about her favorite offerings, Wilde noted that “every wine has a personality.” The one she is most proud of is the 2024 Malvasia Bianca (a dry white), which she deems “the princess of the vineyard.”
Mildly yellow in color, the Malvasia Bianca tastes of mango and green apple, with a subtle hint of licorice on the back end. Forward yet shy, the wine pairs well with summer seafood dishes, especially local Delaware Bay salts.
The Pink Chick Blush, in contrast, is unabashedly kiwi and citrus fruit-forward, with a savory whiff on the back. Apricot-peach in color, this pinot noir rose stands up well to Korean wings, good old-fashioned barbecue ribs or simple corn chips.
Looking forward, Wilde and her team aim to continue experimenting with wines, build upon their hospitality operations and attract new visitors to Cape May County. The overall goal is to become a figurehead in the community.
Another community leader, Cape May Winery and Vineyard at 711 Town Bank Road in North Cape May, also is a family affair. In its third generation, CMW boasts the oldest roots in the county and lives by the catchy slogan “where waves meet wines.”
The packaging of its labels pays homage to local lore. Their logo — found on the sauvignon blanc, merlot and syrah, among other bottles — displays a scallop shell. Its blush features the Cape May Lighthouse, an iconic fixture since 1859, while the port displays the estate of Isaac Smith, the reputable coffin maker from the 1820s who settled the land where the winery is located.
The sparkling wine shows the Cape May diamond, a quartz crystal that has been washing up on the local beaches as long as the horseshoe crab has been laying eggs there.
Jackson C. Sole and Head Vintner Michael Mitchell simply follow the mantra that “you can’t make good wine out of bad fruit.” Consequently, they aim to make really good fruit. Over the years, Cape May Winery’s vineyards have fielded the grapes of a variety of high-end wines, from albarino to zinfandel.
Sole recommends the White Field Blend, a tasty combination of mostly chardonnay with a touch of sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio.
A perfect midsummer day’s dream, the blend is part of the Stone series, which are fermented in uniquely designed, concrete egg-shaped structures. Currently, Sole and Mitchell tout the sparkling.
An unconventional marriage of Riesling and Cayuga grape, it brilliantly bursts and shines on the palate. A game-changer, it is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Chef Mike Siegel orchestrates all culinary offerings, including year-round tapas prepared on site, which couple seamlessly with the impressive slate of wines. Mitchell lights up at the summertime pairing of lobster sliders and Unoaked Chardonnay.
For Wednesday grill nights, the Estate Pinot Noir and Red Reserve prove to be worthy companions. Fridays offer a special happy hour and terrific live music throughout the summer.
Although CMW seeks to produce high-end wines, Sole emphasizes that wine lovers, the wine curious or anyone interested in a festive time in a romantic, relaxed atmosphere should “come here and feel special, part of the family.”
Also family-run, by the wife/husband team of Kenna and Todd Weurker, Hawk Haven Winery at 600 S. Railroad Ave. in Rio Grande sits on a farm that has been in their family for three generations.
The land has been used for cattle, vegetables and now wine. Under two big-top tents or on a sprawling lawn, customers can take in the view of the viniferous landscape and drink big-personality wines.
Vintner Todd Weurker states that music enhances the wine experience, and he pairs his wines with music accordingly. Regular performers at Hawk Haven include local duo Marnie and Nate who perform classics from Fleetwood Mac to Bob Marley to Creedence Clearwater Revival. Marnie’s sonorous vocals, mixed with Nate’s expert guitar playing, provide a perfect canvas for enjoying the popular, very flexible Flying Press White. Add fresh scallop tacos to the mix and you have a summertime symphony of senses.
One of the best beach-based music festivals in the Garden State is Hawk Haven’s Rootstock Vineyard Concert Series. Starting in July, Rootstock runs for eight consecutive Fridays.
A Jersey shore favorite, Ocean Street Stompers is not to be missed. The blast of this New Orleans-style brass band might go best with one of Weurker’s favorites, a festive bubbly blanc de blanc. Another of his favorites is the cabernet franc. Try it with Roquefort cheese and peanuts while listening to the smooth soul sounds of Joslyn and the Sweet Compression at the end of July.
In August, Rootstock brings troubadour and surfer Donovan Frankenreiter to the Hawk Haven grounds.
His poetic and poignant play might pair with the Proprietor’s Blend. Slightly blueberry sweet with a peppery savory backend, the blend goes well with spicy food. In his signature song, Donovan croons, “You Gotta Believe in Something.”
We believe the corollary to the adage “When in Rome do as the Romans” should be “When in Cape May, drink as the Cape Mayans.” We believe that Cape May vintners — Maldonado and Wilde, Sole and Mitchell, the Weurkers and others — utilize the wind and cultivate the terroir of the peninsula to create a bounty of deliciously unique wine. This should come a surprise to no one — it is the Garden State after all.
By MARC JOHNSON and MARLISA VINCIGUERRA /For the Star and Wave
