In 1810, Munich, Bavaria was in the midst of a cultural movement known as German Romanticism. The movement promoted a communion of man and nature, getting back to simpler times when harvest, family and artful living were valued over technology, profit and industrial progress.
As a show of generosity, or “bread and circus” tactic, Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese invited the Bavarian citizenry to celebrate their royal nuptials by throwing a five-day party complete with food from the fall’s harvest, oompah music and plenty of bier.
As a political matter, it was brilliant — a well-fed and entertained feudal populace is less likely to overthrow a monarchy than a hungry and disaffected one.
Thus was born the first Oktoberfest, which, 215 years later, is celebrated around the globe, including in Cape May County.
Starting in early September, the county and its brewers pay homage to the Bavarian tradition by hosting a variety of events and creating a panoply of festive brews.
Fear that you missed out? Not to worry, this weekend is the grand finale — the fifth weekend of Oktoberfest. On Oct. 11, Anglesea Alehouse boasts its first official Oktoberfest featuring the Meeresschwein Marzen, a stein-holding competition, Bavarian pretzel-eating contest, German music, Oktoberfest garb and plenty of food.
Also this weekend in the northern “Gateway to the Cape,” Ludlam Island Brewery continues to build its beer-making fiefdom with its Oct. 11 Oktoberfest featuring the Brass Consort Oompah Band, bratwurst and bier. Ludlam makes three bold pumpkin-based brews.
First up, Mashing Pumpkins Ale is made of real, pure pumpkin and has a tart, zesty, spiced taste mixed with hints of butter — it is a blast. Second up, derived from Mashing Pumpkins is Chocolate Pumpkin Ale — it first gives you a chocolate kiss, then follows with a roasted pumpkin tang, finishing with a fizz that redefines suds. Finally its Becky, a pumpkin spice (and spiked) latte — its nose is a potpourri of fall spices and fallen leaves, it’s like s’mores and French toast combined in a glass then drizzled with a little syrup and butter — it’s rich.
If you’re not up for a dessert-like bier on an Oktoberfest day, then try Ludlam’s Marzen.
“Brewed with pilsner, Munich, and Vienna malts, and properly lagered,” this bier tingles with sweet piney and malty deliciousness and ends with the holiday spices — cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger.
Week one
On the first weekend of Oktoberfest, starting Sept. 12, the local festivities kick off at MudHen Brewing Co. in Wildwood with the release of its MarzHen Lager, a play on the traditional bier of Oktoberfest, Marzen.
“This time of year is always my favorite as a brewer,” Tony Cunha said. “In these ‘old style’ beers, I learned that a kaleidoscope of flavors and colors could be derived from the simple core ingredients of water, malted barley, hops and yeast. This was fascinating to me.”
Fascinating indeed. Knowing not to ask an accomplished brewer about the secret nuances of his concoctions, we sampled the Marzen.
With a whiff of cream soda on the nose, this tangy, lemony and toasty potable drinks like a dream and ends with a malt finish, lots of it. Easy to drink, this beer is designed for the long haul Oktoberfest embodies.
Cunha also has mastered other German biers. His Hen Pecked Heifenweizen is the color of butter and has a taste of clove, fennel, cinnamon and apple schnapps.
We cleaned the palate with a bite of Bavarian pretzel, then on to the next bier, the Sundown Schwartzbier. It’s fizzy and frothy and tastes like a liquid version of a Black Forest cake with cherries on top.
With the finality of the rich dessert brew, we’ve had our fill. As we prepared to leave, Cunha advises us to return for the introduction of Wise Hen Bock, his turn on bock bier.
“Weizenbock is hands down one of my favorites to brew and drink. Hope you can circle back for a taste,” he said.
We appreciated the invite and prepared for the second weekend of Oktoberfest, which brought us to Sept. 20.
Week two
Bock bam boom! Behr Brewery throws the family-friendly party of the year, aptly named OktoBEHRfest. Along with dancing to the classic rock band Kabin Fever, one of the pleasures is the Bushwacker Bock Bier — the robust, malty and low hops character of this nearly ancient lager was first created in Einbeck, Germany in the 1300s and refined in 1700s Bavaria, where the local accent turned “beck” into “bock.”
Chestnut in color, this bock carries an earthy nuttiness on the nose, while teasing pecan pie with a butter crust on the tongue.
Another delight, Gaylord Pumpkin, exemplifies Behr brewer Jake Smith’s innovative spirit and deft use of the season’s bounty, originating with a “Gaylord” — large boxed quantity — of pumpkins purchased from Rea’s Farm and ending with 30 pounds of luscious pumpkin in each batch.
With a holiday-spiced nose, this bewitching brew melds an apple cinnamon, maple and pumpkin mélange on the palate, with a kiss of hops to finish.
And onto the show, where the main event is the Stein-holding Competition. It is the official sport of Oktoberfest in which competitors hoist and hold a 5-pound stein of beer with a straight-arm, perpendicular to the torso, as long as they can.
The steins are filled with the star of the party, Festbier. With an amber hue, Festbier is zesty all day long, yet clean and easy to drink. However, it is not so easy to hold with one outstretched arm, defying gravity. The winning time was 4:27. Afterward, competitors celebrate by drinking the contents of their steins. With an oak aftertaste, it reminds one of all the outdoor pleasures of autumn.
Week three
On the third weekend of Oktoberfest, Sept. 27-28, much of Cape May County was outside hopping as Avalon, Cape May Court House and Cape May all celebrated the Germanic holiday.
Smack in the middle of the county, Oktoberfest is known as Slacktoberfest due to Slack Tide Brewery’s yummy interpretation of German Marzen poured at its Harvest Tide Festival.
More than a festival, it is a full-on fair with three food trucks, 20 vendors, the musical engagement of soloist Nolan Quinn and DJ Dennis Oh, and the release of Sea Robin. When asked about its name, brewer Jason Campbell replies, “Sea robin is a fish we sometimes catch while targeting other species. The fish is reddish brown on top with an orange underbelly. So, we thought that was a fitting name.”
Minty on the nose, with a taste of butterscotch and pumpkin pie, this pumpkin ale signifies the harvest season and teases us with a preview of holidays just around the corner.
Sugar, spice and everything nice is the harvest bounty that Wildwood’s Anglesea Aleworks offers at its pre-Oktoberfest celebration, during which owner/brewer Mike Johnson pairs Laura’s Fudge with German-style biers. Of note is the Gourdwalk Ale. With lots of cinnamon hoppyiness, it is forward with a light pumpkin pie-filling taste and has a fizzy finish. Naturally, it pairs with pumpkin fudge.
A seasonal staple at Anglesea is the Hubie Hefeweizen, made true to Reinheitsgebot (German law of pure brewing). With hints of banana and caramel, it is where sweet meets wheat.
It pairs perfectly with the Orange Cream fudge. Why beer and fudge, you might ask? Well, first off, why not? Second, Johnson is committed to supporting local businesses. Lastly, if you think about it, fudge is a year-round harvest of any respectable boardwalk town.
In coastal living, the harvest doesn’t come just from the land — it comes from the sea as well. Cape May Brewing Co. pays tribute to the local sea bounty with its Oyster Stout. The brewery touts that it’s “in cahoots with cape harbor shellfish” and, boy, can you taste those cahoots. By adding salts, shells and all to the fermentation process, this unique beer evokes ocean bubbles hugging mocha-dark chocolate candies; it certainly is not your grandma’s Whitman’s. This stout is hearty on the tongue yet deceptively light and easily drinkable, particularly down by the shore.
Cape May Brewing Co. also honors the land harvest with Pick of the Batch pumpkin ale. It is burnt-orange brown in color, with a nose full of fall spices, which intensifies to a buttery, soft taste of apple tart goodness.
With a slight autumnal floral finish, this brew also contains hints of clove and pine, making it a perfect companion for not only Oktoberfest, but Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas gatherings as well.
Week four
On the fourth weekend of Oktoberfest, Oct. 3-5, the spirit of the holiday can be found in Cape May Brewing Co.’s offerings as senior brewer Mike Dorval makes two of his favorite fall beers.
The Oktoberfest Marzen is a classic. Dorval describes it best: “amber in color with rich maltiness from a heavy dose of Munich malt.” Derived from the Marzen tradition is the lighter Friends Who Fest Lager. With a handsome white froth, golden tone and smoothness, it will surely bring friends together for limitless toasts to the good life on the Jersey shore.
For five autumnal weeks, when harvest season and Oktoberfest become synonymous and interchangeable, Cape May County brewers transform the community into a beer drinkers paradise, leading locals and tourists alike to the holidays to come — Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and others. And to those fine brewers, we raise a stein and say, Prost!
By MARC JOHNSON and MARLISA VINCIGUERRA/For the Star and Wave
